Literary Places

LOOKING FOR SOME BEAUTIFUL BOOK PLACES IN PARIS? SEARCH NO FURTHER:

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This year marks my tenth visit to Paris, and almost every time I’m there, I make a point of finding at least one place connected with books. Which, to be honest, isn’t that difficult, as some of the most famous writers have lived there, written about the city or spent time there. There was Hemingway, who wrote A Moveable Feast in his flat at 74 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine. And Victor Hugo, whose house in the Marais district is open to visitors. The Irish writer James Joyce worked on Ulysses during his stay in Paris, and Oscar Wilde died in the city in 1900. There are more book cafés than you could possibly count, and from every trip I bring home notebooks that remind me that I’m a writer. Here’s a small selection of my favourite spots – should you ever travel there, let them inspire you:

The House of Nissim Camondo. I’ve written a detailed blog post about it – it’s a breathtaking place in the same neighbourhood as the Musée Jacquemart-André, which houses some of the finest works of art. The Camondo family lived in their Parisian villa for centuries, and it’s one of the few places where you really get the feeling that people actually ‘lived’ there. I’ve already posted some information about the literary aspect on the blog; do have a look if you’re interested.

Victor Hugo’s house. This one feels ancient, small yet spacious, bold for that time with some bright green tapestry and mixed furniture. It is a beautiful town house at Place des Vosges, surely one of the most stunning places in Paris. You can imagine him sitting at one of the small tables, in the four-poster bed upstairs or outside in the courtyard and writing Les Misérables bend over paper. Bonus: the house or now turned museum, is free to visit, so don’t skip this opportunity when you stalk the Marais area.

The Bibliothèque François Mitterrand, or the French National Library. One of my absolute favourite places of all. The main library (not the research library) is a huge oval that looks as though it were designed for a film set in the Roaring Twenties. It has vast ceilings with skylights and green lamps on tiny wooden tables, and houses literature of all kinds, as well as, of course, literature about France and Paris. It’s the only library in Paris that’s open on Sundays, so you might want to choose another day to visit it. Closed on Mondays.

Mezzanine Library. This place is old. Like OLD old. Like the oldest library in the entire country. When you enter the yard walking over to the Mezzanine building, it already looks like you’re about to get closer to history and entering a temple. A beautiful stone staircase winds its way up to the library and you are greeted by some of the most beautiful bookshelves ever. And yes, you are allowed to work there!!! Isn’t that insane? Even if you’re not a university student, you’re welcome to bring your laptop or notebook and sit under the low-hanging lamps with a view of the Seine. Please note: You’ll need to hand in your ID card on entry; it will be returned to you when you leave.

Merci Bookshop & Café. This shop is a bit different and has a modern feel to it. You can find just about everything here, from clothes and fake fried eggs to furniture, perfume and crockery. And, of course, books. Plus everything to do with books: notebooks, pencils, stickers, colouring books, bookmarks and writing tips. You can spend hours there – and spend money. Lots of money. Once you’ve finished shopping, you can settle down amongst more books in the café, which is just as lovely. If you’re looking for a great place for souvenirs, books you might not find anywhere else, and a good coffee, come here.

59 Rivoli. This is not JUST a bookplace but an arts space in general. You walk up a spiral staircase lined with incredible works of art, passing artists’ studios along the way. Some are writing, others are painting, whilst others are working on song lyrics, music, graffiti or sculptures. It’s a place you really ought to visit at least once, and many artists sell postcards or other items they’ve created themselves there. And entry is free!

Bistrot des Lettres. A restaurant with a literary theme that serves some of the best French dishes I’ve ever eaten in Paris? Count me in! The prices are reasonable for central Paris, and it’s close to Notre-Dame AND the Nanna book boat (but I’ll save that for another post). So if you’re looking for a great place to eat after seeing all the sights, this restaurant is an excellent choice. What’s more, at the end of your meal, you’ll be given an envelope and a sheet of paper on which you can write a letter to yourself or a friend, to be posted exactly one year later. I cannot recommend this restaurant highly enough.

Let me know if you checked out any other literary places in Paris and which ones stayed with you. All of the above have my heart and my love for literature about Paris is limitless so I’ll read anything you recommend. Some of my favourite quotes to close the first round of the Paris recommendations:

“If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.” -Ernest Hemingway 

“When good Americans die, they go to Paris.” -Oscar Wilde

“People wonder why so many writers come to live in Paris. I’ve been living ten years in Paris and the answer seems simple to me: because it’s the best place to pick ideas. Just like Italy, Spain… or Iran are the best places to pick saffron. If you want to pick opium poppies you go to Burma or South-East Asia. And if you want to pick novel ideas, you go to Paris.” -Roman Payne

“In Paris they simply stared when I spoke to them in French; I never did succeed in making those idiots understand their own language.” -Mark Twain

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